Day 21- Mb2Cb Tour- Rest Day in Spearfish, South Dakota

After 20 straight days on the road it was time to take a break. In this instance the weather, not weariness, played the largest part in my decision to stay in Spearfish the extra day. A cold front came storming through last night bring strong north winds and a cold rain. The rain has intensified during the day and will likely stay wet for the next 24-48 hours. I took advantage of the break by doing laundry, visiting the local library, and taking the bike to the local shop for a quick adjustment of the brakes, derailleurs, headset, and spoke tension. Jeff, the owner of the shop, was a bike mechanic for the U.S. Olympic Bicycling Team back in the day and had some good stories. He was mightily impressed by my Co-Motion Pangea.

Tomorrow morning I'll head out, rain or no rain. I'm very likely entering the toughest leg of the tour. The next 130 miles, the distance between Spearfish and Bowman, North Dakota, are pretty desolate. Normally I would cover that distance in 2 days, however with the wind and rain I think I'm looking at 3 days. My technological crystal balls are telling me that I will be camping out and  probably be off the grid for that entire period. If you don't hear from me for a few days, don't be concerned, I'll probably be out of cell phone and internet range.

This doesn't have anything to do with this tour but I didn't want to leave civilization without mentioning an event so big that billions of folks around the world will stop what they're doing to tune in. Nomadic Asian tribes will be tuning-in inside their yurts. Eskimos will be adjusting the rabbit ears on their igloos. Native Americans in the Black Hills will rush to their tepees, astronauts will align their dish on the space station, and, well I think you catch my drift. This is BIG!! Monday, April 30, 2PM, CST the game of the century (or at least this season)!! The Wankers of Manchester United vs. The Blues of Manchester City!!! Live from the Etihad Stadium, Manchester, England. The winner of this game will probably wear the English Premier League crown this year. I'm sure all of you already knew about this game and have already prepared your bangers and mash, black pudding, and meat pies to munch on during the match. If not you can head out to Fado's on 4th Street, Austin, or The Lion and the Rose, Broadway, San Antonio, or Bar Munich, Louisiana St., Houston and enjoy the game with hundreds of like minded fanatics. I know all of you will join me in cheering on the Blues of Man City in their attempt to dethrone the evil and vile Man U.  For lovers of the Beautiful Game I leave you with this tribute to Man City, the best team money can buy!! Enjoy!! Oh, here's a football chant heard around the Etihad that I really like. It's sung to the tune of "If the Moon Hits Your Eye, That's Amore":

When the ball hits your eye
and you sat in row Z
That's Aguero.
When the ball hits the goal
it ain't Rooney or Cole
That's Balotelli .

and so forth.....

Days 19 and 20-Mb2Cb Tour-Hot Springs to Crazy Horse to Hill City to Deadwood to Spearfish, SD.

I'm not nearly gifted or skilled enough to describe, so you can really understand, the excitement I've experienced the past 2 days. That said, I'll try anyways.

I'm in Spearfish, SD. this Thursday evening .The songs of Paddy Moloney and The Clancy Brothers are playing in Flanagan's Pub,  A cold front has blown in plunging the temperature from the 80's to the low 40's. A hard, cold, rain is expected for tonight and all day tomorrow. I've settled in to an old stuffed chair by the fire. Robert, the barman, tells me the keg is full and the jukebox stuffed with quarters. Later on, if I can stay awake, live Irish singers will take the stage. Because of the expected hard rains and because the bike needs maintenance and the body some rest, I will take the first rest day of this tour tomorrow.

I left Hot Springs two days ago in the face of a stiff 20-25 mph wind blowing in my face. About ten miles out of town I entered Wind Cave National Park. As soon as I entered the park there was a sign "Buffalo Are Dangerous. Do Not Approach!!!!" Since I was busy fighting the wind, I didn't think much of it. I struggled up a hill, took a sharp curve, when all of a sudden, not 10 feet in front of me, in the middle of the road, stood the biggest, meanest, nastiest, buffalo in all creation. I slammed on my brakes. Now I don't know much about buffalo, but I do know that when they're snorting and kicking up their heels, they aren't very happy to see you. I'm not ashamed to say that I was scared. I was stopped on the upward side of a steep hill, and there was no way I could turn the bike and out run that beast if he decided to charge. Just when I thought it was lights out for me, a car came around that same sharp curve, and honked his horn at me and/or the buffalo. I wish I had thought to photograph the beast but there was no time, and anyways my hands were shaking too much to snap the shutter. The buffalo must of thought better of tangling with the car, and ran off up the hill to join the herd. It all happened in a flash and served to remind me that passing through wilderness at 10mph on a bicycle is different than zooming through in a two ton vehicle at 70mph. Needless to say, I was much more aware of my surroundings from that point forward.

I thought all day how I could describe the ride through Wind Cave and onward to Crazy Horse, and finally to Spearfish. If you are a serious road racer I think this is the place for you. For me, the casual tourist, this place was heaven and hell. The road, highway 385, from Hot Springs to Spearfish is one of the most beautiful and scenic roads anywhere. This is a land of soaring vistas, shimmering lakes, big trees, log cabins, and hills. Many, many hills. Sitting here, comfortably in my stuffed chair, my legs still cramp up when I think of scaling those hills. The distance from Hot Springs to Spearfish is about 100 miles. About 50 of those miles are uphill and I'm talking real hills, with 10-12 percent grades, at a max altitude of over 5000 feet above sea level. The agony of those hill climbs was exceeded only by the ecstasy of the descents. Coming out of Deadwood this morning, I encountered the most fearsome hill ever, at least 2 miles long with a sustained 10 percent grade. My knuckles were white from gripping the handlebars so tight.  I was certain that my lungs would burst or my heart come shooting out from my chest. When I finally reached the top, I found heaven. For the next 10 miles I rocketed downhill at speeds that would have exceeded 50mph had I not braked down. Hard to describe that sensation, almost like free fall, and it went on and on and on. Just me and the bike. If you can find a better way to spend a Thursday morning, do it.

The climbs and descents, on these Black Hills, are the story of this tour, for me. The sheer physically and intimate interactions with the environment tend to over shadow everything else. I would however be remiss in my responsibilities as blogger if I did not at least mention the other powerful force at work here. The Black Hills are sacred to the Sioux and other indigenous peoples. Those folks believe that the valleys, trees, man, and woman sprang from a font deep in these hills. They believe that the spirits of their ancestors live in these hills and stand watch, waiting for the day that the land will be restored to the rightful creatures. The Crazy Horse monument, being blasted and carved from the mountainside, is a testament to the beliefs of these native people. As mentioned before, I'm a skeptic, but as I rocketed down these hills, with those incredible vistas unfolding before me, I could almost believe.

So as the rain starts to fall and Robert pours another, I sign off. You will forgive me if I fade off into my cups. I've earned it.

Day 18_Mb2CbTour_Chadron, NE to Hot Springs, South Dakota

I had thought to take a day off from posting but just could not let this day pass without telling you all about today. I left Chadron this morning, at first light, looking forward to passing into yet another state. There isn't much guess work involved here. With Google Maps, Ride With GPS, and the Weather Channel App, I pretty much know what I am riding into. However, what all that connectivity and technology can not do is prepare you for the natural splendor you are about to encounter. I rode for hours through steep passes lined with giant boulders and tall pine trees until I found myself smack dab in the middle of one of the prettiest little towns I have ever seen. I could live here and would really like to see this little town in snow. Picture a meandering river running through a historic downtown. Waterfalls, ducks, blooming flowers, and ice cold Blue Moon on tap. The natural hot springs that run through this area have been known, for hundreds of years, to have magical healing properties. Native Americans migrated here to hunt and to bathe in the hot springs. As late as the early 1900's old cowboys came here to bathe in the waters and be healed from injuries sustained on cattle drives. Many healing centers were established and folks from New York and Chicago came to bathe and be healed. I've always been a skeptic, but I did dip my feet in the font, and damn if I don't feel great!!! I've taken more than a few pics hoping that you will get a feel for this beautiful place.  I'm on the road again bright and early in the AM. If the rest of the South Dakota Black Hills are anything like Hot Springs, I'm in for a great ride!!

Days 16 & 17 Mb2CB Tour - Sidney to Alliance to Chadron, NE.

Of the many things I experienced during the first 17 days of this tour, I was most affected by the trains. My route ran parallel to a BNSF train line for many hundreds of miles through Colorado and Nebraska. Living in the Hill Country, it had been awhile since I had experienced big trains up close and personal. I had a great moment when a train conductor acknowledged me one morning by blowing his whistle when he passed me. A simple thing like that can give a guy on a bicycle a big lift.  On my bicycle I not only can see trains up close, but I can feel and hear and even smell them. I've seen trains hauling coal, lumber, grain, livestock, automobiles, oil and people. Out here, where every little town has silos or stockyard, it is common to see trains loading or unloading and you see and meet train people in the dinners and taverns. I think I may have enjoyed being a train man, up front in the engine, or even back in the caboose. I wonder if it's too late.

Leaving Alliance, NE. this morning I did my first touristy thing on this tour. I took a short 5 mile detour and stopped to visit Carhenge. My friend Susan told me about this place and I'm glad I went and saw it. Carhenge is a takeoff on Stonehenge, only instead of stone structures, it's built with old cars. As a piece of folk art, it's definitely interesting and I felt it was saying something to me. I'm not sure what though, maybe that I should change the oil in my truck more often. Also, a few miles from Carhenge, I passed by the most unusual rest stop I've ever seen. There are most definitely some quirky folks around these parts.

By the end of today's ride I had left behind the now familiar scenes that define the High Plains. All of those endless and spectacular green pastures, long straight roads, farmhouses, and tiny rural towns built around giant grain silos have given way to big hills and tall pine trees. The transition from plains to forest was not subtle. The Nebraska National Forest and the Pine Ridge Area burst upon me like a sudden thunderstorm. The images from my handlebar cam cannot do justice to the scenes I witnessed from behind my bicycle today, and this is just the beginning, because Chadron, NE. is just the gateway. Tomorrow morning, at first light, I cross the White River, leave Nebraska, and enter the Badlands & Black Hills of South Dakota. Exciting stuff and I wish you could all be here with me.

Day 15-Mb2Cb Tour- Sterling, CO. to Sidney, Nebraska

Today was a scheduled day off but I biked anyway in order to put a few miles in the bank. I'm thinking I may need them if the weather and/or terrain get tougher. Having banked miles allow me do shorter runs (like today) if winds or terrain get too difficult and still stay on schedule. On this, the 15th day of the tour, I crossed from Colorado into Nebraska and stopped for the night in Sidney. Total tour mileage is 934 which puts me over the half way point. To date the tour has gone remarkably problem free. I've had no injuries, accidents, or equipment issues to deal with. With some luck the remainder of the tour will proceed just as problem free. I want to thank you all for staying with me. Your comments, which I read after biking all day, give me a tremendous lift and help me to carry on.

Day 14- Mb2Cb Tour- Anton, Co. to Sterling, Co.

As bad as yesterday was, today was great. Bright skies, wind still in my face but just 8-12mph which is not so bad, good roads, a bean and cheese burrito in Akron, and an excellent stopping point. I'm sitting in the Crest Motel in beautiful Sterling, Co. If you are ever in Sterling, be sure to to stop at the Crest. Denny, the owner, is a good carpenter and an even better host. He and his partner are remodeling this motel which was built in the 50's, and doing a great job. I feel like I'm staying at the Four Seasons, and the room is only 50 bucks. Is this a great country or what? One other thing about Sterling. There's a Mexican restaurant, Delgado's, that has been located in the basement of an old church for the past 38 years. The thing is, for those 38 years there has been no sign, no advertisement, no way of knowing that Delgado's even exists, unless you are a local or you know someone.  I know Denny, and you know me. So if you're ever in Sterling Co., after checking into the Crest, stop by Delgado's for dinner. The enchiladas are to die for.

I am in great spirits tonight as tomorrow I cross into Nebraska and go over 900 miles. Sadly, the 900 mile mark also means that the tour is half over. What am I going to do with myself when I don't have to wake up at dawn and pedal 60+ miles? Will my life ever be the same? When I used to have a real job, working as a semiconductor process engineer, the first day after returning from a vacation, I would start planning the next vacation. Maybe I should start planning the next tour. I'm curious how many of you would ever consider doing a long distance bicycle tour. Let me know.

Oh, for all of you riding the MS 150 from Houston to Austin this weekend, GOOD LUCK!!!

Day 13 Mb2Cb Tour Seibert, Co. to Somewhere on Hwy 63 Between Anton and Akron, Co.

For those of you who think cross country bicycle touring is all glitz and glamor, you should see me now. I'm hunkered down in my tent somewhere along side Colorado hwy 63. I smell like a goat, have only a half pack of skittles to eat for dinner, and it looks like rain. Today I  pedaled like mad just to make 55 miles. I don't know what I did to upset the wind god, but must have been something serious as he/she/it launched a steady 20-25mph wind at my face all day long. Tomorrow will be a better day.
On the bright side, I do have 1 bar on my Verizon tab so I should be able to publish this post. Also, thanks to the wonders of modern science and the wonderful folks at The Best Little Library in Texas (the MCL), I have just checked out 2 eBooks from our Lone Star Digital Library. That means I'll be able to read and eat skittles at least until the battery or the skittles run dry. If you haven't done so already, I really recommend you look into checking out eBooks from our digital library. Who knows, you could be stuck out on Colorado Hwy 63 one day with nothing to read.

P.S. 1 bar didn't provide enough internet connectivity so I had to publish this post 24 hours later.