Days 25, 26 and 27-Mb2Cb Tour-Watford to Williston to Fortuna, North Dakota

I'm indeed fortunate this evening to find myself in Fortuna, ND. This is a delightful little town, pretty much in the middle of nowhere, just 10 miles from the Canadian border. Fortuna, is very small, but is populated by folks with very big hearts. I stopped here late in the day knowing there was neither a motel nor campground anywhere close by. Bev, who runs the Border Tavern (Fortuna has 1 church and 1 bar) listened to my tour story and told me that I was welcome to pitch my tent in the community park, across the street from the Tavern. The community park is beautifully landscaped, and looks completely out of place. Obviously these kind souls like their parks, bibles, and liquor. My kind of folks!! Just outside of Fortuna I stopped at Pearson's Cafe and had the best meal I've had since the tour started and met two of the most interesting and lovely people ever. Patresha, the cook, is a native of Jamaica, and cooks up the absolute best Jamaican Jerk Chicken & Rice. Along with Greg, her husband, they cook up wonderful dishes, and they'll even sing and dedicate spirituals hymns and prayers to you. It's meeting folks like the Pearson's that make this tour such a great experience. Patresha and Greg Pearson, fine cooks, fine Christians, and even finer human beings. If you're fortunate enough to find yourself in Fortuna, ND. you must stop by Pearson's Cafe, and tell them Randy sent you.

I cannot leave North Dakota behind without commenting one last time on the oil boom currently underway. I'm from Texas, and I worked for a time in Pasadena, right in the middle of the largest concentration of oil companies on the planet, but I've never seen anything like this. Oil related activities are infused in everything. Everywhere there are gigantic RV and trailer cities, comprised of thousands of units each. These are temporary housing for the hundreds of thousands men and women working the oil industry. This place reminds me of an ant hill, after you've poked it with a stick. But instead of ants, there's thousands of big trucks running every which way. Big trucks hauling, oil, road building materials, drilling equipment, and especially earth moving heavy equipment. There's clearly a great deal of money and jobs here. The restaurants, bars, stores, motels are all doing very well. What is less obvious, is what the state, county, and city governments are doing to mitigate the damage being done to the environment. My travels through the state have shown me the good and the

Days 22, 23, 24, 25 Mb2Cb Tour Spearfish to Buffalo, SD. To Bowman, to Belfield, to Watford City, North Dakota

My apologies for not posting these past 4 days. Much has happened in that time but unfortunately I was either too tired or did not have the internet access necessary to post.

I left Spearfish 4 days ago on a chilling cold, wet, and windy day. I had been monitoring the weather and knew I was in for a rough ride. To compound the issue I was pretty sure that I would have to camp out at the end of the day, since there was only 1 small town, Buffalo, within 80 miles of Spearfish. I could find nothing online that indicated that there was a motel in Buffalo. That day, Day 22, was the toughest day of the tour so far. I pedaled for 12 hours, 6am to 6pm, all the while looking for someplace I could make camp. Pitching a tent on the cold, soggy ground, while a steady cold rain is falling, didn't much appeal to me, but what choice did I have? It was actually preferable to continue pedaling than to stop. As I continued on, I knew that I had to stop soon because the cloud cover would bring on darkness long before sunset. As much as I disliked the idea, I decided that my best bet was to try and make camp under a bridge. Not an appealing thought, but at least it would be out of the rain. By that time I had just passed 80 miles for the day and was ready to just fall over and sleep in the middle of the highway. What happened next is something that I will always look back on fondly. Just past the town of Buffalo, there was a sign that said MOTEL with an arrow. The sign was faded, and had fallen loose on one end causing the arrow to point straight down. I thought great, a motel in hell! I'll take it!! But there was a motel, the Tipperery, and it was open, and it had a green neon YES in the window. I walked into the office/lobby and stood there half frozen, like a big block of ice, dripping all over carpet. I not sure what the clerk thought when she saw me, I must have been a sight, but she gave me a room. I took a hot shower, hit the bed, and didn't stir again until 5am the next morning. Believe it or not, I was ready and looking forward to hitting the road again. If you feel that way after the nightmare of the previous day, chances are you really enjoy bicycle touring.

The weather did improve the next 3 days, though it was still quite windy and cool. I crossed into North Dakota on Day 23. South Dakota and North Dakota are called the Twin States, for reasons that escape me. SD is all hills, steams, waterfalls, quaint little towns, and lots of tourists. ND is relatively flat, with dusty lttle towns, and no tourist. What ND does have is BIG OIL, and one of the lowest unemployment rates in the country. The signs of big oil are everywhere. Thousands of big trucks on the road hauling composite materials to built roads into the oil patch. Every motel between Belfield and Williston, ND is booked solid, contracted out to Hailburton and other large oil companies.
Frankly it's not very attractive here. I suppose that's the price that we pay for our dependence on fossil fuels. I understand that oil means jobs, and that's the good aspect of big oil. I'm just happy all these oil companies are not in the Texas Hill Country.

I'm wrinting this post laying in my tent camped out in a C.C.C built campground just outside of Watford, ND. I will not be able to post photos because I don't think I have enough connectivity. Also I should sign off soon as my battery is running low and I don't have any way to recharge. My next post could very well come to you from Canada. I'm getting close. Bye for now.

Day 21- Mb2Cb Tour- Rest Day in Spearfish, South Dakota

After 20 straight days on the road it was time to take a break. In this instance the weather, not weariness, played the largest part in my decision to stay in Spearfish the extra day. A cold front came storming through last night bring strong north winds and a cold rain. The rain has intensified during the day and will likely stay wet for the next 24-48 hours. I took advantage of the break by doing laundry, visiting the local library, and taking the bike to the local shop for a quick adjustment of the brakes, derailleurs, headset, and spoke tension. Jeff, the owner of the shop, was a bike mechanic for the U.S. Olympic Bicycling Team back in the day and had some good stories. He was mightily impressed by my Co-Motion Pangea.

Tomorrow morning I'll head out, rain or no rain. I'm very likely entering the toughest leg of the tour. The next 130 miles, the distance between Spearfish and Bowman, North Dakota, are pretty desolate. Normally I would cover that distance in 2 days, however with the wind and rain I think I'm looking at 3 days. My technological crystal balls are telling me that I will be camping out and  probably be off the grid for that entire period. If you don't hear from me for a few days, don't be concerned, I'll probably be out of cell phone and internet range.

This doesn't have anything to do with this tour but I didn't want to leave civilization without mentioning an event so big that billions of folks around the world will stop what they're doing to tune in. Nomadic Asian tribes will be tuning-in inside their yurts. Eskimos will be adjusting the rabbit ears on their igloos. Native Americans in the Black Hills will rush to their tepees, astronauts will align their dish on the space station, and, well I think you catch my drift. This is BIG!! Monday, April 30, 2PM, CST the game of the century (or at least this season)!! The Wankers of Manchester United vs. The Blues of Manchester City!!! Live from the Etihad Stadium, Manchester, England. The winner of this game will probably wear the English Premier League crown this year. I'm sure all of you already knew about this game and have already prepared your bangers and mash, black pudding, and meat pies to munch on during the match. If not you can head out to Fado's on 4th Street, Austin, or The Lion and the Rose, Broadway, San Antonio, or Bar Munich, Louisiana St., Houston and enjoy the game with hundreds of like minded fanatics. I know all of you will join me in cheering on the Blues of Man City in their attempt to dethrone the evil and vile Man U.  For lovers of the Beautiful Game I leave you with this tribute to Man City, the best team money can buy!! Enjoy!! Oh, here's a football chant heard around the Etihad that I really like. It's sung to the tune of "If the Moon Hits Your Eye, That's Amore":

When the ball hits your eye
and you sat in row Z
That's Aguero.
When the ball hits the goal
it ain't Rooney or Cole
That's Balotelli .

and so forth.....

Days 19 and 20-Mb2Cb Tour-Hot Springs to Crazy Horse to Hill City to Deadwood to Spearfish, SD.

I'm not nearly gifted or skilled enough to describe, so you can really understand, the excitement I've experienced the past 2 days. That said, I'll try anyways.

I'm in Spearfish, SD. this Thursday evening .The songs of Paddy Moloney and The Clancy Brothers are playing in Flanagan's Pub,  A cold front has blown in plunging the temperature from the 80's to the low 40's. A hard, cold, rain is expected for tonight and all day tomorrow. I've settled in to an old stuffed chair by the fire. Robert, the barman, tells me the keg is full and the jukebox stuffed with quarters. Later on, if I can stay awake, live Irish singers will take the stage. Because of the expected hard rains and because the bike needs maintenance and the body some rest, I will take the first rest day of this tour tomorrow.

I left Hot Springs two days ago in the face of a stiff 20-25 mph wind blowing in my face. About ten miles out of town I entered Wind Cave National Park. As soon as I entered the park there was a sign "Buffalo Are Dangerous. Do Not Approach!!!!" Since I was busy fighting the wind, I didn't think much of it. I struggled up a hill, took a sharp curve, when all of a sudden, not 10 feet in front of me, in the middle of the road, stood the biggest, meanest, nastiest, buffalo in all creation. I slammed on my brakes. Now I don't know much about buffalo, but I do know that when they're snorting and kicking up their heels, they aren't very happy to see you. I'm not ashamed to say that I was scared. I was stopped on the upward side of a steep hill, and there was no way I could turn the bike and out run that beast if he decided to charge. Just when I thought it was lights out for me, a car came around that same sharp curve, and honked his horn at me and/or the buffalo. I wish I had thought to photograph the beast but there was no time, and anyways my hands were shaking too much to snap the shutter. The buffalo must of thought better of tangling with the car, and ran off up the hill to join the herd. It all happened in a flash and served to remind me that passing through wilderness at 10mph on a bicycle is different than zooming through in a two ton vehicle at 70mph. Needless to say, I was much more aware of my surroundings from that point forward.

I thought all day how I could describe the ride through Wind Cave and onward to Crazy Horse, and finally to Spearfish. If you are a serious road racer I think this is the place for you. For me, the casual tourist, this place was heaven and hell. The road, highway 385, from Hot Springs to Spearfish is one of the most beautiful and scenic roads anywhere. This is a land of soaring vistas, shimmering lakes, big trees, log cabins, and hills. Many, many hills. Sitting here, comfortably in my stuffed chair, my legs still cramp up when I think of scaling those hills. The distance from Hot Springs to Spearfish is about 100 miles. About 50 of those miles are uphill and I'm talking real hills, with 10-12 percent grades, at a max altitude of over 5000 feet above sea level. The agony of those hill climbs was exceeded only by the ecstasy of the descents. Coming out of Deadwood this morning, I encountered the most fearsome hill ever, at least 2 miles long with a sustained 10 percent grade. My knuckles were white from gripping the handlebars so tight.  I was certain that my lungs would burst or my heart come shooting out from my chest. When I finally reached the top, I found heaven. For the next 10 miles I rocketed downhill at speeds that would have exceeded 50mph had I not braked down. Hard to describe that sensation, almost like free fall, and it went on and on and on. Just me and the bike. If you can find a better way to spend a Thursday morning, do it.

The climbs and descents, on these Black Hills, are the story of this tour, for me. The sheer physically and intimate interactions with the environment tend to over shadow everything else. I would however be remiss in my responsibilities as blogger if I did not at least mention the other powerful force at work here. The Black Hills are sacred to the Sioux and other indigenous peoples. Those folks believe that the valleys, trees, man, and woman sprang from a font deep in these hills. They believe that the spirits of their ancestors live in these hills and stand watch, waiting for the day that the land will be restored to the rightful creatures. The Crazy Horse monument, being blasted and carved from the mountainside, is a testament to the beliefs of these native people. As mentioned before, I'm a skeptic, but as I rocketed down these hills, with those incredible vistas unfolding before me, I could almost believe.

So as the rain starts to fall and Robert pours another, I sign off. You will forgive me if I fade off into my cups. I've earned it.

Day 18_Mb2CbTour_Chadron, NE to Hot Springs, South Dakota

I had thought to take a day off from posting but just could not let this day pass without telling you all about today. I left Chadron this morning, at first light, looking forward to passing into yet another state. There isn't much guess work involved here. With Google Maps, Ride With GPS, and the Weather Channel App, I pretty much know what I am riding into. However, what all that connectivity and technology can not do is prepare you for the natural splendor you are about to encounter. I rode for hours through steep passes lined with giant boulders and tall pine trees until I found myself smack dab in the middle of one of the prettiest little towns I have ever seen. I could live here and would really like to see this little town in snow. Picture a meandering river running through a historic downtown. Waterfalls, ducks, blooming flowers, and ice cold Blue Moon on tap. The natural hot springs that run through this area have been known, for hundreds of years, to have magical healing properties. Native Americans migrated here to hunt and to bathe in the hot springs. As late as the early 1900's old cowboys came here to bathe in the waters and be healed from injuries sustained on cattle drives. Many healing centers were established and folks from New York and Chicago came to bathe and be healed. I've always been a skeptic, but I did dip my feet in the font, and damn if I don't feel great!!! I've taken more than a few pics hoping that you will get a feel for this beautiful place.  I'm on the road again bright and early in the AM. If the rest of the South Dakota Black Hills are anything like Hot Springs, I'm in for a great ride!!

Days 16 & 17 Mb2CB Tour - Sidney to Alliance to Chadron, NE.

Of the many things I experienced during the first 17 days of this tour, I was most affected by the trains. My route ran parallel to a BNSF train line for many hundreds of miles through Colorado and Nebraska. Living in the Hill Country, it had been awhile since I had experienced big trains up close and personal. I had a great moment when a train conductor acknowledged me one morning by blowing his whistle when he passed me. A simple thing like that can give a guy on a bicycle a big lift.  On my bicycle I not only can see trains up close, but I can feel and hear and even smell them. I've seen trains hauling coal, lumber, grain, livestock, automobiles, oil and people. Out here, where every little town has silos or stockyard, it is common to see trains loading or unloading and you see and meet train people in the dinners and taverns. I think I may have enjoyed being a train man, up front in the engine, or even back in the caboose. I wonder if it's too late.

Leaving Alliance, NE. this morning I did my first touristy thing on this tour. I took a short 5 mile detour and stopped to visit Carhenge. My friend Susan told me about this place and I'm glad I went and saw it. Carhenge is a takeoff on Stonehenge, only instead of stone structures, it's built with old cars. As a piece of folk art, it's definitely interesting and I felt it was saying something to me. I'm not sure what though, maybe that I should change the oil in my truck more often. Also, a few miles from Carhenge, I passed by the most unusual rest stop I've ever seen. There are most definitely some quirky folks around these parts.

By the end of today's ride I had left behind the now familiar scenes that define the High Plains. All of those endless and spectacular green pastures, long straight roads, farmhouses, and tiny rural towns built around giant grain silos have given way to big hills and tall pine trees. The transition from plains to forest was not subtle. The Nebraska National Forest and the Pine Ridge Area burst upon me like a sudden thunderstorm. The images from my handlebar cam cannot do justice to the scenes I witnessed from behind my bicycle today, and this is just the beginning, because Chadron, NE. is just the gateway. Tomorrow morning, at first light, I cross the White River, leave Nebraska, and enter the Badlands & Black Hills of South Dakota. Exciting stuff and I wish you could all be here with me.

Day 15-Mb2Cb Tour- Sterling, CO. to Sidney, Nebraska

Today was a scheduled day off but I biked anyway in order to put a few miles in the bank. I'm thinking I may need them if the weather and/or terrain get tougher. Having banked miles allow me do shorter runs (like today) if winds or terrain get too difficult and still stay on schedule. On this, the 15th day of the tour, I crossed from Colorado into Nebraska and stopped for the night in Sidney. Total tour mileage is 934 which puts me over the half way point. To date the tour has gone remarkably problem free. I've had no injuries, accidents, or equipment issues to deal with. With some luck the remainder of the tour will proceed just as problem free. I want to thank you all for staying with me. Your comments, which I read after biking all day, give me a tremendous lift and help me to carry on.